The Model 3 is the core of our tailoring range and our go-to for many situations. It’s soft, unstructured construction is a nod to Italian tailoring which not only makes it supremely comfortable but also flattering.
A Sport Coat or a Suit
The Model 3 is the most versatile design in our series of tailoring. Working equally well as a sport coat or suit, where we call it the 3A, the A denoting the type of trouser.
It’s great versatility is why you’ll find it in our Essentials collection and made up in the largest variety of fabrics in the shops and online.
One of the most distinctive features on any jacket is the shoulder. The Model 3 features an unpadded, natural shoulder line which allows it to sit close to the body.
The extended shoulder gives the appearance of a more powerful silhouette. This flattering effect is created by extending the canvas slightly into the sleeve head, giving the sleeve slight ‘rollino’ sleeve. This is typical of many Florentine style jackets, like those of Liverano & Liverano.
The canvas is the skeleton of the jacket, providing body and structure to the cloth. With a full floating canvas we achieve the deep roll of the lapel, full chest and even the extended shoulder mentioned above.
A frequently used term in tailoring; this means that a jacket is made with 3 front buttons, but the lapel rolls over to cover the top button. The Model 3 is cut so only that the middle button is intended to be used.
The lower quarters of the jacket sweep away to emphasize the suppressed waist and full chest — a more flattering silhouette.
The chest pocket is cut straight, contrasting those of the softer neapolitan makers, fitting in with Florentine tailors. The pocket is angled downwards, and lowered to match the slightly lowered gorge line.
Another signature feature of our Model 3 jacket is the lapel. We've cut our lapel straight and long, giving it an almost inverted line. The gorge line (the seam connecting the collar to the lapel) has a sharp 90 degree angle. All of these make for an angular silhouette to partner with the softness of the shoulder, giving a bold overall look.
We set out with the goal of creating a range of tailoring that would be ready for any occasion. Over a decade we’ve designed and refined the collection in partnership with Ring Jacket, a small Japanese manufacturer.
Ring Jacket has a rich history of more than 60 years in ready-to-wear and custom garments. We partnered with them because of their consistency, attention to detail and ability to give made-to-measure garments what can only be described as three dimensional ‘life’.
Ring Jacket pattern makers visit The Armoury NYC three times a year for trunk shows offering made-to-measure services and exclusive fabrics.