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We explore the limits of our house line of Made-to-Order and Made-to-Measure tailoring with the team’s recent commissions.
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We're serious about custom and are particular about the language we use in describing each service. Not every custom piece is (or necessarily should be) Made-to-Measure, so here we want to be transparent about the strengths and weaknesses of each.
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Our MTO program builds on the shoulders of our extensive range of proprietary models. After selecting a model, clients choose the fabric, lining, button, and pocket style. Adjustments can also be made to the length of the jacket, helpful for those shorter or taller than average.
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The MTM program goes a step further, allowing for further fit adjustments to be made. Starting from a fitting garment we can accommodate for varying postures, sleeve pitches and sloped shoulders, as well as offer a variety of lining, button, and pocket style choices.
“I have always appreciated donegal tweeds, I find them to be fantastically versatile during the colder months. For this Model 16 double-breasted suit, I knew I wanted a salt and pepper donegal with a sharp contrast between the black and white. The juxtaposition of this tweedy cloth and the softness of the cut allows this suit to be a bit of a hybrid. It can be worn casually with knitwear or a chambray shirt or it can be dressed up with a crisp white shirt and black knit tie.”
"I’ve been wanting to add both a double-breasted suit and an understated black suit to my collection for a long time, so I decided to go for both at once. The weight of the four-ply fabric is considerable, which allows the garment to drape and flow beautifully, but the openness of the weave means that a lot of air can pass through it, making it breathable enough to wear on a hot summer afternoon. Often, black suits can either be overly formal or look like a uniform, so I chose details that would give it the opposite look. Patch pockets, swelled edges on the lapels and pockets and more casual black mother-of-pearl buttons. An added benefit of the black suit is that the trousers can be worn separately with a more formal jacket for a cool evening look, so I had them made with side adjusters."
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"In almost five years of working at The Armoury, I somehow managed to skip step one of commissioning a navy blazer. Especially in the warmer months, I always felt they looked like orphaned suit jackets. When we introduced the Florentine inspired Model 15, I knew this was going to change. I found this dark blue swatch that stood out thanks to its color and texture, leaving no question it would make a great summer sport coat. The openness of the weave means it's extremely breathable and crease resistant, making it easy to dress up with some high-twist trousers, while the patch pockets and mother-of-pearl buttons make it casual enough to pair with polos and washed denim."
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"The soft shoulder and bellied lapel of our Model 6 are absolutely perfect. I knew I wanted a classic charcoal pinstripe, but I had to go through quite a few swatches before I found one with the right weight, drape, and texture. I love the finishing on it: the dense English worsted really works well with the subtle pick stitching on the lapel. The high-waisted trousers with side tabs are very comfortable too.”
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"I’ve always loved velvet. It’s such a wonderful fabric that evokes absolute glamor and sexiness. I wanted a striking shade and had images of Jimi Hendrix and Keith Richards in the late 1960's as inspiration. The aubergine swatch stood out immediately; it captured a bold and chic look I wanted. I had to go with the Model 6; it’s my favorite model as I enjoy that extra dashing sensibility. Add to that the beautiful contrast of gold buttons, and I’ve got a piece I’ll wear with a bow tie and formal shirt or a cream cashmere turtleneck."
"Being a shorter guy with broad, sloping shoulders, the Model 3 just works for me. While this shoulder/chest construction works wonderfully even in ready-to-wear, the MTO program allowed me to adjust proportions for a shorter jacket. Given that I'm usually wearing my jacket all day, I chose this greyish green Fox City three-season fabric for its resilience and breathability. The color is in keeping with my fondness for classic looks but it's just outside the typical grey/navy palette for a subtle but fresh twist on the proper suit."
"The Model 16 combines elegance with comfort, qualities I think of as epitomizing the men's wardrobe from the 1930's. That decade inspired this model, and it's with that in mind that I looked for something with natural stretch in the fabric books. This is my second piece from Harrison's Spring Ram, a "stitched hopsack" with lots of flexibility in the weave and a texture you can see and feel. I love it worn casually around New York City, but if I head to Bermuda or Cap d'Antibes anytime soon it's definitely coming along for the trip."
"My inspiration for this suit was an ad from the 1980's that showcased a navy/white seersucker suit. After digging around, I found this incredible wool/silk Loro Piana fabric from their Mare collection. It is super comfortable, almost like pajamas! The Model 11 is my go-to at this point, the un-fussiness of the American sack suit aligns well with my personal style. I’ve been wearing this suit a lot this summer and even wear the trousers as separates with an untucked oxford or polo."
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We're excited to welcome back Hidetoshi Sasamoto & Tani Yuzuru of Ring Jacket.
Sasamoto-san and Tani-san, Ring Jacket's head cutter, will be in New York to take new orders, perform fittings and present a selection of vintage and deadstock fabrics from Wednesday, March 22nd — Saturday March 25th.
FIND OUT MORE