Hunting for supplies in Milan with Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella Napoli.
Gianluca Migliarotti, the founder of the bespoke trouser-making company Pommella, recalls accompanying his father to the tailor when he was a young boy in Naples. His father liked to buy suits and sport coats from a Neapolitan local legend named Ciro Palermo (the right-hand man of Vincenzo Attolini, who is credited with inventing the Neapolitan cut).
Gianluca says, "While my father was getting fitted, he and his tailor would let me play with the fabric books. Occasionally, they would ask me for my opinion, such as, 'what do you think of this fabric? What would you do if this were your choice?' I grew up around fabrics, and have always been fascinated by them."
Although choosing fabric appears simple, many commissions have been ruined by a blue that is too red or a check that is too large. Gianluca has the rare ability to spot a fabric that no one else has considered but is still something with the necessary underpinnings to create a lasting, trend-proof garment. Among his fabric books are renowned merchants such as Fox Brothers and Holland & Sherry, as well as a special stash of vintage fabrics he's amassed over the years.
"Vintage fabrics can be very unique because they were made for a different market," explains Gianluca. Because of the internet and globalization of taste, many mills and merchants now produce the same things. However, when you source from vintage archives, you can find special mixtures that would be too expensive to produce today, long-lost patterns, or yarns that are no longer manufactured. "The taste is a little different.”
Gianluca, for example, recently discovered a vintage covert with an unusual color palette. The majority of coverts are made from yarns spun from black, brown, and occasionally white fibers. But this one added red and green to the mix, giving it a lot more depth. "You don't see stuff like this anymore; you can't even find it," Gianluca says. "You'd have to start at the yarn level to make something like this, which isn't possible unless you're doing a large run."
When it comes to sourcing vintage, there is some risk involved. After all, most cloths aren't turned into garments for a reason—perhaps the fabric was too spongy, or the pattern wasn't appealing. "Most of what's left isn't good stuff," Gianluca admits. But there's also the possibility of stumbling upon something that was previously overlooked and now shines when seen with new eyes.
"It's not just about the design, but also about the fabric's quality. For vintage to be good, these two elements must come together. You can tell by touching it; squeeze the fabric and see how it reacts. When you've been in this trade for a while, you gain some perspective on what works."
Most importantly, vintage fabrics allow you to create things that you won't see on anyone else. "Unless you meet someone who is also a client of mine," Gianluca jokes.
The Armoury will be hosting a trunk show with Pommella on Wednesday, March 29th — Saturday April 1st. Along with his regular collection of fabric books, Gianluca will be bringing swatches of his vintage fabric collection, so customers can choose from more unique designs.
