"Visiting Koji's workshop feels a little like going to the North Pole to see Santa. His team are hard at work, there are fittings neatly lining the walls, shelves and shelves of lasts and stacks of beautiful materials arranged carefully on the staircase bannisters. It's an incredible place and as an atelier purpose-built for Koji, a beautiful reflection of his vision of shoemaking." - Mark Cho

Exploring Koji's styles and production samples before measurments are taken and a sketch of the desired shoe is drawn.

The uppers are fitted to a unique custom made last

Koji Suzuki, one of shoemaking's all-time greats, will be visiting The Armoury New York on Friday, Dec. 2nd through Saturday, Dec. 3rd to take new made-to-order and bespoke commissions, in addition to performing fittings.

We traveled to Kobe, Japan to visit one of our favorite shoe makers.

Touring the Atelier with Spigola

If you were shopping for a new trouser wardrobe a hundred years ago, you could get everything you needed in about a day. The average man's wardrobe in the early 20th century was monastic by today's standards. Most men wore suits for both work and leisure, which meant their trousers were picked out for them. If they wanted to switch things up, they swapped out their suit pants for white flannels and white shoes.

A shift happened sometime around the 1920s. Ivy League students wanted something more comfortable they could wear for spectator sport. American soldiers returning home from Western Europe also raided department stores for sportier clothes. This was the start of sport coat culture — the first time odd jackets became widely adopted and, with it, the need for more trousers. By the 1970s, the number trouser options was downright dizzying, especially as designers came up with various weights, weaves, colors, fibers, and finishes for something a simple as a pair of pants.

The good news is that you can build a reliable trouser wardrobe if you stick to some fundamental principles. The first is to stay close to basic colors, namely grey and tan. These can be worn with almost any kind of jacket. Since tailored outfits typically keep the focus up top – centered on the v-shape created by a jacket, tie, and shirt – you want the trousers to be simple and visually undemanding.

"When a guy comes in, we always start with what they want to get out of their trouser wardrobe," says Alan See, The Armoury's co-founder. "A wardrobe built for a conservative business environment will be different from one primarily used for casual purposes. It also depends on the climate and the region."

Most people, however, will benefit from building out their grey trousers first. Year-round options can be found in Draper's Ascot book, which has four-ply worsteds in light- and mid-grey. Darker charcoal shades can be found in Draper's Five Star and Dugdale Bros’s New Fine Worsteds. "Charcoal trousers can be handy, but it's surprisingly hard to find good fabrics in this color,” says Mark Cho, the shop's other co-founder. “We like charcoals that have a bit of visual depth to them, so they don’t look flat.”

Once you have trousers that can work most of the year, it's time to get some seasonal variety. Hight-twist, open weave wools, such as those from Minnis Fresco and Holland & Sherry's Crispaire, are not only more durable, they're also breathable. "For summer weekends, it's chinos," adds Alan. "For more conservative guys, we recommend neutral shades in beige. But if a guy likes to wear more color in his wardrobe, we suggest khakis that have a slightly yellower cast. A warmer shade allows them to pair beige trousers with brighter colors." There's no shortage of suitable books when it comes to cotton. W. Bill, Holland & Sherry, Drapers, Brisbane Moss, and Spence Bryson all have attractive options.

"The thing about cotton is that you don't want to go too lightweight," says Mark. "Otherwise, chinos can end up looking like pajamas. Slightly heavier cotton will hold its shape better." Alan notes he especially likes the cottons in Brisbane Moss' Tennyson bunch, which are heavy enough to hold a crease.

The same concept applies for fall/winter. Grey and tan will always be your most versatile colors, but you’ll want something cozier for the weather. If you work in a conservative environment, there will always be a place for flannel and gabardine ("we like them in lighter weights in Hong Kong, given the humidity," says Alan). Cotton varieties such as moleskin, corduroy, and brushed cotton can then be used in more casual settings or the weekend. "The British are known for making flannels with a slightly colder, yellow cast, which looks great with black shoes," says Mark. "Fox Flannel and Holland & Sherry are particularly good. Especially in light- and mid-grey, where you can see more of the milling in the finish."

"Some guys find they wear trousers out quickly," says Mark. "For those guys, we often recommend high-twist wool in the summer and then a covert cloth in the winter. Covert cloth is a tightly woven twill, so it's hard-wearing. Holland & Sherry's Dakota bunch has some particularly nice shades that almost look like gabardine. Since covert, like gabardine, can look a bit shiny, I find they do better in lighter colors such as beige."

Once you have some solid greys and tans, you can expand your trouser wardrobe into different directions. "After beige, olive is a useful color, particularly in fabrics such as Fresco or cotton," says Mark. “The color looks great with cream or brown sports jackets. Navy can also be good, but you don't want to go too dark. Otherwise, they can look like orphaned suit pants. I like how dark blue trousers, ones that are just a shade darker than denim, look with grey sports jackets."

There are also very casual seasonal varieties. Flecked Donegal tweeds, especially in mid-brown, can be worn in the winter months. But, as Alan notes, you want something densely woven so it'll hold its shape. "Italian Donegals tend to be too loose for trousers, so they work better for jackets."

Mark also adds that, while he occasionally wears linen trousers with sport coats, he mostly uses the material for either suits or casual ensembles. "The heavier, the better," he adds. “The Irish linens are nice because they’re not too transparent.”

Style-wise, we like cotton trousers of any variety to be flat-front. "Sometimes it can be hard to make cotton pleats lay right," notes Mark. Wool trousers, on the other hand, can go either way. "With wool trousers, I prefer them to be pleated, but not too full across the lap," Mark continues. "With a pleat, you add just a little room to the top half of the trousers, which means you can still have a moderate leg opening and get a taper that adds shape. When trousers are too slim up top, you have to taper the leg more aggressively to achieve the same silhouette, which can look awkward at the bottom. It’s all about relative proportions.“

The standard Armoury style is also a little higher in the rise, something that sits above the hip bone, although a lot depends on the customer's body type and preferences. "It's about striking a balance," says Alan. "In the past, people also wanted very slim trousers, and we needed to push them towards something a little fuller so the pants would drape properly. But nowadays, we're seeing more people value comfort, so things are swinging back towards the middle of the road.“

Other details, such as the inclusion of side tab adjusters, belt loops, or suspender buttons, are just personal preference. Suspenders will make your trousers look their best, as they help them hang properly, but some men find them inconvenient or even archaic. Side tabs and belt loops can be good alternatives, with the side adjusters resulting in a cleaning looking line between the trouser and shirt. "Except for tuxedos, I always recommend getting cuffs though," says Mark. "The bit of weight allows the trousers to hang straighter." Plus, as Alan notes, most of our tailoring is Italian and will look better with cuffed hems.

“Sometimes a guy will come in and look at our ready-made trouser selection. A question we’ll often hear is, ‘what can these be worn with?” says Alan. "When in doubt, wear it with a navy sport coat. That almost always works."

Trousers

This season's trousers are made from worsted Italian flannel, original Irish donegal, Loro Piana corduroy and more.

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including handsewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a donegal wool from Magee of Donegal, Ireland perfect for the warmer months. This model features Pommella’s side tab waistband.

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including handsewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a donegal wool from Magee of Donegal, Ireland perfect for the warmer months. This model features Pommella’s side tab waistband.

Wool Donegal Side Tab Trousers - Gravel / 46

Wool Donegal Side Tab Trousers

Gravel / 46

Our very own Model A trousers from Ring Jacket. Made up in a mid-weight cotton/wool corduroy by Loro Piana, and featuring a medium wale, we’ve created what we feel is a great flat front fit. Wear them with or without a cuff for a casual cold weather outfit.

Our very own Model A trousers from Ring Jacket. Made up in a mid-weight cotton/wool corduroy by Loro Piana, and featuring a medium wale, we’ve created what we feel is a great flat front fit. Wear them with or without a cuff for a casual cold weather outfit.

Cotton/Wool/ Corduroy Model A Trousers - Honey / 46

Cotton/Wool/ Corduroy Model A Trousers

Honey / 46

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including hand-sewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a versatile 100% Worsted Wool Neapolitan Flannel, perfect for the cooler months featuring a new side tab waistband.

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including hand-sewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a versatile 100% Worsted Wool Neapolitan Flannel, perfect for the cooler months featuring a new side tab waistband.

Flannel Side Tab Trousers - Charcoal / 46

Flannel Side Tab Trousers

Charcoal / 46

Flannel Side Tab Trousers - Mid Grey / 44

Mid Grey / 44

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including handsewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a 100% cotton moleskin fabric, which we had reversed in order to have the rough side of the cloth exposed for harder wearing, while the comfortable brushed side faces the interior. Inspired by Australian workwear trousers, this pair has been given more casual details, such as western style pockets and a clean front. These trousers are a perfect casual choice for the cooler months.

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including handsewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a 100% cotton moleskin fabric, which we had reversed in order to have the rough side of the cloth exposed for harder wearing, while the comfortable brushed side faces the interior. Inspired by Australian workwear trousers, this pair has been given more casual details, such as western style pockets and a clean front. These trousers are a perfect casual choice for the cooler months.

Reverse Moleskin AUS1 Trousers - Cream / 46

Reverse Moleskin AUS1 Trousers

Cream / 46

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. With a slim leg, a slightly higher rise, and an extended waistband, this flat-front model in heavy taupe covert cloth is elegant and warm; a nod to old school dressing.

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. With a slim leg, a slightly higher rise, and an extended waistband, this flat-front model in heavy taupe covert cloth is elegant and warm; a nod to old school dressing.

Flat-Front Covert Cloth Trousers - Taupe / 44

Flat-Front Covert Cloth Trousers

Taupe / 44

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. With a slim leg, a slightly higher rise, and an extended waistband, the Armoury single-pleat Rota trouser in dark chocolate flannel is perfect for the winter months.

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. With a slim leg, a slightly higher rise, and an extended waistband, the Armoury single-pleat Rota trouser in dark chocolate flannel is perfect for the winter months.

Single-Pleat Flannel Trousers - Chocolate / 44

Single-Pleat Flannel Trousers

Chocolate / 44

The Armoury is happy to introduce Mr. Hayato Osaku’s namesake brand, Osaku Trouser to our artisanal offerings. Like the majority of today’s expert tailors, Osaku-san gained experience working for sartorial houses such as Salone Ondata and more recently, Sartoria Ciccio. While working with Ciccio, Osaku-san honed in his own designs which launched his brand into the standalone atelier he has today. 

The “AO” Osaku Flat Front trouser has a mid rise, with more room in the hip, slim in the thigh, and features a slight taper towards the cuff. The AO trouser also features front and back darts to help provide a clean look and fit.

The Armoury is happy to introduce Mr. Hayato Osaku’s namesake brand, Osaku Trouser to our artisanal offerings. Like the majority of today’s expert tailors, Osaku-san gained experience working for sartorial houses such as Salone Ondata and more recently, Sartoria Ciccio. While working with Ciccio, Osaku-san honed in his own designs which launched his brand into the standalone atelier he has today. The “AO” Osaku Flat Front trouser has a mid rise, with more room in the hip, slim in the thigh, and features a slight taper towards the cuff. The AO trouser also features front and back darts to help provide a clean look and fit.

Flat-front Trousers - Oyster / 46

Flat-front Trousers

Oyster / 46

The Armoury is happy to introduce Mr. Hayato Osaku’s namesake brand, Osaku Trouser to our artisanal offerings. Like the majority of today’s expert tailors, Osaku-san gained experience working for sartorial houses such as Salone Ondata and more recently, Sartoria Ciccio. While working with Ciccio, Osaku-san honed in his own designs which launched his brand into the standalone atelier he has today. 

The “CO” Osaku pleated trouser has a mid-rise, with more room in the hip, slim in the thigh, and features a slight taper towards the cuff. The CO trouser also features Daks style side adjusters and two front pleats to give you a clean, comfortable fit. This pair is made in a high twist wool from New Zealand.

The Armoury is happy to introduce Mr. Hayato Osaku’s namesake brand, Osaku Trouser to our artisanal offerings. Like the majority of today’s expert tailors, Osaku-san gained experience working for sartorial houses such as Salone Ondata and more recently, Sartoria Ciccio. While working with Ciccio, Osaku-san honed in his own designs which launched his brand into the standalone atelier he has today. The “CO” Osaku pleated trouser has a mid-rise, with more room in the hip, slim in the thigh, and features a slight taper towards the cuff. The CO trouser also features Daks style side adjusters and two front pleats to give you a clean, comfortable fit. This pair is made in a high twist wool from New Zealand.

New Zealand Wool Pleated CO Trousers - Grey / 46

New Zealand Wool Pleated CO Trousers

Grey / 46

Our guide to building a wardrobe of classic trousers for all seasons.

Building a Basic Trouser Wardrobe

1) Tell us about your time in the clothing industry. What led you to Drake’s?

Well, before university, I went to work in Italy – doing work for Drumohr, and then some weavers and printers in Como. After about a year, I went to study textile development at the London College of Fashion. During my college years, I’d work Saturdays for Richard James on Savile Row.

I suppose I got into the clothing business because I grew up with it. My father, Charles Hill, had a tie company with Michael Drake. And every Saturday as a teen, I went up to their factory, which was making private label ties for other brands. We’d see the people at the factory, as well as the outworkers. It’s funny because, during those weekend trips, there was always music and bales of silk in the car. My brother went into the music business, and I went into the textile side of things. So maybe it started with those car rides.

2) What do you think makes Drake’s special?

I remember when I first met Michael Drake, he was wearing a button down shirt, 50oz English foulard tie, and Solito sport coat. At first, I thought it was a bit strange, since he sold to half of Savile Row. But no, looking back, it made sense. Michael built this incredible business in Italy and was there often. He also loved that softer approach to tailoring – he’d wander around in his Solito jacket with his shirt collar flying out. Those were just things he took on and made into his own style.

I’d like to think that’s what we’re doing. Our stuff is a little classic, and at times a bit formal, but we’re trying to do them in a way that’s a little softer and more comfortable. It’s about a certain sensibility.

3) Drake’s has remained steady and true to its roots over the years. Given how quickly fashion changes, how have you guys been able to do that?

I think it helps to remember where we came from. My father and Michael used to work very closely with their suppliers. I was fortunate enough to witness a lot of that growing up, which I think gave me a deeper insight into the business. And today, we still work with those same mills, which have been our partners for decades now.

I also think we have to stay true. If we didn’t, our customers would notice. As the Japanese would say, they look for “authentic brands.” It’s an overused term, but you have to stay authentic. These days, we’re making more than just ties, but we feel like we’re taking that Drake’s philosophy and applying it to other things. It’s about doing things our way and, hopefully, bringing our point-of-view to the market.

4) Why is it important for Drake’s to manufacture in the UK?

We don’t make in the UK for the sake of making in the UK; we go where we can find the best producers. One of the reasons why we make our own shirts and ties in the UK is because we’re based in the UK. And since we’re located here, making things locally allows us to have more control over the process. We can study things and improve the work, which allows us to produce the best goods possible. On some level, making in the UK won’t mean anything if it’s just about a label. If people love our things, it’s because we’ve made them well. In that sense, we’re very product focused.

5) You manage the design process for a wide range of products. Where do you start each season and what influences that process?

It sounds cliché, but it’s really the work of many people. Designs come from an accumulation of experiences – going around the world, seeing what people are wearing, and building a color story. This morning, I talked with the women on my design team. I spent about thirty minutes explaining some of my ideas, and they discussed how those might be technically possible. That sort of back and forth is important. Similarly, we work very closely with our mills. They might show us a new technology they’ve developed for printing on grenadine, or suggest something from their archive. It’s never the same thing, it’s about an evolution – how you can make something feel fresh again.

I think sometimes we can get carried away with giving certain people too much credit. We all contribute. I don’t think of myself as a great designer or whatever – my work is just as much about editing colors and patterns. We’re not reinventing the wheel here.

6) As a maker you’re surrounded by materials all the time. Are there any that you keep on coming back to or something new that you’d like to experiment with?

Being a tiemaker, there are certainly fabrics we return to time and again, such as Ancient Madder. As far as tie cloths go you'd be hard pressed to find something better, and very few people are making the genuine article these days, so we like to continue the tradition and include it in each collection. That's actually a big part of what we do at Drake's, and one of the most rewarding elements of the whole creative process: making things in what we feel is the 'proper' way, which often requires a lot of hard work and research, whether that's weaving oxford cloth in the way it was done in the early 20th century, sourcing traditionally made knitwear from Scotland, or grenadine silks created on antique looms in Italy. 

7) You have a very clear sense of personal style. What inspires it?

Oh God, there’s an old photo of me standing next to my dad. I’ve got shaggy hair and I’m wearing tartan trousers – clearly not a good example of personal style. But I was thirteen at the time and thought I’d like to wear tartan trousers that day. I enjoyed that stuff. It’s good fun, isn’t it?

I think Drake’s has to be careful about that sort of thing as well. We make things carefully, and design them so our customers will still like them in twenty years, but our goods are also for relaxing and enjoyment. Bring your own little quirk to things. The rules can be guides, but you can also make up your own rules. Yes, you have to fit your environment, but it’s good to have your own sense of personality. Hopefully we make great clothes, but they’re also just clothes.

8) Is there a moment or object that tells a story about how you found 'your style’, whether that be how to dress or just how to live?

I'm not sure that there's a single eureka moment, rather it feels like an ongoing, ever-evolving process. However, certain memories I have from being a child have left a lasting impression on me. My father and grandfather were both involved in the garment trade, so I've spent my whole life in and around this industry. I remember one Christmas my father giving my grandfather a set of beautiful gingham shirts he had had made for him. My father had taken so much care over them, and that gave me a sense of how significant clothing could be. 

I also remember being excited by the differences in the way people from different countries dressed. These days we can see all of this on Instagram, but when I was young you only saw this in person. Americans dressed like Americans, and Italians dressed like Italians, and noticing these subtle differences was a real education in personal style.

9) The Drake’s aesthetic is always evolving. How do you stimulate your creativity to keep your vision progressing?

The Drake's aesthetic is very much the meeting point of our origins as a company, and what excites us today. I'm never short of inspiration in that respect, because I'm constantly surrounded by inspiring people. Michael Drake and his distinctive personal style will always be a touchstone for the brand, but also our shop floor teams in London, New York and Asia wear Drake's in their own unique ways, and that's a great source of inspiration and new ideas. For me, it's simply about keeping my eyes open to the world around me. 

10) Your shops have a different aesthetic in each location. Can you tell us a bit about the design?

We want our shops to have a unifying feel, but for each one to be distinct. Our latest project has obviously been our Savile Row flagship, which we're hugely proud of. Nearly everything for the shop space was custom made, so it all carries a particular Drake's handwriting. As well as that the shop is home to a lovely collection of art from a range of London-based artists, including Sir Peter Blake, Clive Hodgson, Dominic McHenry, Adam Dant and Lothar Götz, giving it a sense of place. We have done something similar with our New York shop on Crosby Street, working with a terrific local art dealer to fill the space with art that's unique to the city.

Drake’s shirts are handcrafted in Somerset, England. With barrel cuffs, mother of pearl buttons, and a box pleat for extra movement, the non-fused collar sits beautifully alongside a regular fit body. As with all things Drake’s, the construction is top notch with clean, single-needle stitching, reinforced parchment gussets, and top quality linings. A great casual shirt with an easy, versatile spread collar, cut from a textured linen.

- 100% Linen 
- Spread Collar with Brushed Floating Interlining 
- Mother of Pearl buttons 
- Single needle stitching 
- Box pleat 
- Point pocket 
- 8-button front with 1-button single, rounded cuff with brushed floating interlining 
- Handcrafted in Somerset, UK

Drake’s shirts are handcrafted in Somerset, England. With barrel cuffs, mother of pearl buttons, and a box pleat for extra movement, the non-fused collar sits beautifully alongside a regular fit body. As with all things Drake’s, the construction is top notch with clean, single-needle stitching, reinforced parchment gussets, and top quality linings. A great casual shirt with an easy, versatile spread collar, cut from a textured linen.<ul><li>100% Linen </li><li>Spread Collar with Brushed Floating Interlining </li><li>Mother of Pearl buttons </li><li>Single needle stitching </li><li>Box pleat </li><li>Point pocket </li><li>8-button front with 1-button single, rounded cuff with brushed floating interlining </li><li>Handcrafted in Somerset, UK</li></ul>

Linen Stripe Spread Collar Shirt - Green/Natural / 38

Linen Stripe Spread Collar Shirt

Green/Natural / 38

Utilizing the finest cloths from specialty mills across Italy and the UK, Drake’s ties are made by hand at their Haberdasher Street Factory in London. With a dedication to craftsmanship and a unique design sensibility, Drake’s ties have a relaxed, enduring elegance to them. This model is made up in silk with a colorful geometric print.

Utilizing the finest cloths from specialty mills across Italy and the UK, Drake’s ties are made by hand at their Haberdasher Street Factory in London. With a dedication to craftsmanship and a unique design sensibility, Drake’s ties have a relaxed, enduring elegance to them. This model is made up in silk with a colorful geometric print.

Habotai Silk Printed Tipped Tie - Navy

Habotai Silk Printed Tipped Tie

Navy

With a dedication to craftsmanship and a unique design sensibility, Drake’s pocket squares have an enduring elegance to them, featuring vibrant, intricate designs with hand-rolled edges. This cotton/silk blended square features a playful watermelon print.

With a dedication to craftsmanship and a unique design sensibility, Drake’s pocket squares have an enduring elegance to them, featuring vibrant, intricate designs with hand-rolled edges. This cotton/silk blended square features a playful watermelon print.

Cotton/Silk Watermelon Print Pocket Square - Beige

Cotton/Silk Watermelon Print Pocket Square

Beige

We sat down with Michael Hill, Creative Director of Drake’s, to ask him about the development of the brand and his personal style.

10 Questions with Michael Hill of Drake’s

The name 'Ulster' comes from an Irish province of the same name, whose people were known for wearing a certain style of tweed overcoat. Usually made out of a thick, heavy tweed, Ulster coats are meant to fit somewhat roomy in order to accommodate a heavy knit or thick tweed sport coat underneath. The lapels are notched in a such a way that they can be folded over when the coat is buttoned up.

The Florentine version of the Ulster coat is called “doppio uso” roughly translating to "two ways" based on that same idea of the coat's dual choices of closure. In Tuscany, the Doppio Uso is often made from Casentino wool with a wolf or fox fur collar. The piped contrasting edges and equally contrasting wool lining was the ultimate sign of a well executed garment.

The Liverano Ulster is a true work of art. The pocket flaps are curved at the font, and angled straight towards the back. The lapels are perfectly balanced and tailored to stand and frame your face in the best possible way. This is achieved by a small cut made on the underside of the collar, which is then filled with the same fabric, only it is sewn in the opposite direction. The arms are curved to match your posture, and the shoulder is unmistakably Liverano. Coats like these are why we do what we do.

Antonio Liverano began his tailoring house in 1948, with his Doppio Uso at the core of his offerings. He considers the Liverano Ulster to be a classic interpretation, with modern updates making it easier to wear for both younger and older customers; men and women alike. Throughout his career, this coat has been copied many times, but it's never truly the same. Liverano has watched as many coats have been handed down from father to sons. Due to the use of heavier and tougher fabrics, the coat takes almost twice as long to make compared to a standard jacket.

If you could peer into the closets of some of the world's best dressed men, you'd see that many have one piece in common. A Liverano Ulster. Below, we did just that, ask our friends and colleagues to tell us about their coats and what makes them special.

"It is by far the favourite piece in my entire wardrobe. It is with this piece that Liverano demonstrated how flattering and pleasing the classic menswear silhouette can be. Wearing his Ulster is one of the biggest joys of any winter!"

"The Liverano Ulster Coat or Doppio Uso remains the most beautiful version of the Ulster Coat style I have ever seen. It has perfect proportions, beautiful details and is the signature piece of Antonio Liverano."

We are very excited to host Takahiro Osaki and Seung Jin An of Liverano & Liverano at our New York shops Wednesday, October 19th – Saturday, October 22nd.

We take a closer look at Liverano's famous 'Cappotto Doppio Uso'

A Closer Look at The Liverano Ulster

The Model 6 double breasted suit is a staple in our range of tailoring. Featuring a low, horizontal lapel that sweeps out wide and straight, it’s classic and incredibly wearable. We’ve lowered the breast pocket, extended the shoulders, and kept everything soft for our signature timeless feel. This model is made up in a medium weight mohair from VBC.

Includes high rise, pleated Model B trousers to match.

The Model 6 double breasted suit is a staple in our range of tailoring. Featuring a low, horizontal lapel that sweeps out wide and straight, it’s classic and incredibly wearable. We’ve lowered the breast pocket, extended the shoulders, and kept everything soft for our signature timeless feel. This model is made up in a medium weight mohair from VBC.Includes high rise, pleated Model B trousers to match.

Mohair Model 6B Suit - Taupe / 46

Mohair Model 6B Suit

Taupe / 46

Founded by Akshat Jain and Varvara Maslova, who’s experience in the textile industry spans 6 generations. With a focus on embroidery and fine hand finished details, 100Hands garments are the pinnacle of shirtmaking. This spread collar shirt is made from 100% cotton, featuring a bengal stripe.

Made in India, The Armoury’s own spread collar shirt features a generous spread collar.

Founded by Akshat Jain and Varvara Maslova, who’s experience in the textile industry spans 6 generations. With a focus on embroidery and fine hand finished details, 100Hands garments are the pinnacle of shirtmaking. This spread collar shirt is made from 100% cotton, featuring a bengal stripe.Made in India, The Armoury’s own spread collar shirt features a generous spread collar.

Cotton Bengal Spread Collar Shirt - Taupe / 38

Cotton Bengal Spread Collar Shirt

Taupe / 38

Tucked away in the winding alleys of Naples, E. & G. Cappelli is easy to miss — but step inside, and you’ll find a rare window into the old-world craft of Neapolitan tie making. Founded by Patrizio Cappelli and named after his sons, Ettore and Gaetano, the workshop reflects a deep-rooted commitment to tradition.

Patrizio’s passion for English fabrics is evident in the exclusive cloths that fill his archive, many of which are no longer produced. His ties echo the character of the workshop itself — understated, classic, and refined.

This tie is crafted from Silk Madder, featuring a diamond medallion motif. Like all Cappelli ties, it is entirely hand-sewn in Naples, using the finest fabrics sourced from mills across Italy and the UK.

Tucked away in the winding alleys of Naples, E. &#x26; G. Cappelli is easy to miss — but step inside, and you’ll find a rare window into the old-world craft of Neapolitan tie making. Founded by Patrizio Cappelli and named after his sons, Ettore and Gaetano, the workshop reflects a deep-rooted commitment to tradition.Patrizio’s passion for English fabrics is evident in the exclusive cloths that fill his archive, many of which are no longer produced. His ties echo the character of the workshop itself — understated, classic, and refined.This tie is crafted from Silk Madder, featuring a diamond medallion motif. Like all Cappelli ties, it is entirely hand-sewn in Naples, using the finest fabrics sourced from mills across Italy and the UK.

Silk Madder Diamond Medallion Hand-rolled Tie - Navy/Olive

Silk Madder Diamond Medallion Hand-rolled Tie

Navy/Olive

The Armoury’s Hundred Series is a handmade take on our house tailoring models. The Model 103 is almost completely handmade, with all production happening in the center of Italy. Featuring an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead, this is jacket is extremely comfortable and provides an exceptional range of motion. The generous and lowered lapel gives this jacket a timeless feel. Made up in a worsted three-ply cashmere check from Vitale Barberis Canonico.

The Armoury’s Hundred Series is a handmade take on our house tailoring models. The Model 103 is almost completely handmade, with all production happening in the center of Italy. Featuring an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead, this is jacket is extremely comfortable and provides an exceptional range of motion. The generous and lowered lapel gives this jacket a timeless feel. Made up in a worsted three-ply cashmere check from Vitale Barberis Canonico.

Cashmere Check Model 103 Sport Coat - Brown/Plum/Black / 46

Cashmere Check Model 103 Sport Coat

Brown/Plum/Black / 46

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. The Sway Trouser is a new addition to our lineup from Rota. With a wide leg, high rise, and an extended waistband, this double pleat model in a dark olive wool twill is an elegant addition to your Autumn trouser lineup.

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. The Sway Trouser is a new addition to our lineup from Rota. With a wide leg, high rise, and an extended waistband, this double pleat model in a dark olive wool twill is an elegant addition to your Autumn trouser lineup.

Wool Sway Trousers - Dark Olive / 46

Wool Sway Trousers

Dark Olive / 46

Tucked away in the winding alleys of Naples, E. & G. Cappelli is easy to miss — but step inside, and you’ll find a rare window into the old-world craft of Neapolitan tie making. Founded by Patrizio Cappelli and named after his sons, Ettore and Gaetano, the workshop reflects a deep-rooted commitment to tradition.

Patrizio’s passion for English fabrics is evident in the exclusive cloths that fill his archive, many of which are no longer produced. His ties echo the character of the workshop itself — understated, classic, and refined.

This tie is crafted from Wool Challis, featuring a classic medallion motif. Like all Cappelli ties, it is entirely hand-sewn in Naples, using the finest fabrics sourced from mills across Italy and the UK.

Tucked away in the winding alleys of Naples, E. &#x26; G. Cappelli is easy to miss — but step inside, and you’ll find a rare window into the old-world craft of Neapolitan tie making. Founded by Patrizio Cappelli and named after his sons, Ettore and Gaetano, the workshop reflects a deep-rooted commitment to tradition.Patrizio’s passion for English fabrics is evident in the exclusive cloths that fill his archive, many of which are no longer produced. His ties echo the character of the workshop itself — understated, classic, and refined.This tie is crafted from Wool Challis, featuring a classic medallion motif. Like all Cappelli ties, it is entirely hand-sewn in Naples, using the finest fabrics sourced from mills across Italy and the UK.

Wool Challis Medallion Hand-rolled Tie - Sage

Wool Challis Medallion Hand-rolled Tie

Sage

The Armoury Model 3 suit features extended, unpadded shoulders and an enlarged sleevehead. With a lower buttoning point and notch lapels this suit has a timeless Neapolitan feel. Made up in a navy twill, one of our favorite Zegna blends, with just a touch of cashmere for super soft wear and more drape than your typical cotton twill.

Includes high rise, flat front Model A trousers to match.

The Armoury Model 3 suit features extended, unpadded shoulders and an enlarged sleevehead. With a lower buttoning point and notch lapels this suit has a timeless Neapolitan feel. Made up in a navy twill, one of our favorite Zegna blends, with just a touch of cashmere for super soft wear and more drape than your typical cotton twill.Includes high rise, flat front Model A trousers to match.

Cotton/Cashmere Twill Model 3A Suit - Light Navy / 44

Cotton/Cashmere Twill Model 3A Suit

Light Navy / 44

Tucked away in the winding alleys of Naples, E. & G. Cappelli is easy to miss — but step inside, and you’ll find a rare window into the old-world craft of Neapolitan tie making. Founded by Patrizio Cappelli and named after his sons, Ettore and Gaetano, the workshop reflects a deep-rooted commitment to tradition.

Patrizio’s passion for English fabrics is evident in the exclusive cloths that fill his archive, many of which are no longer produced. His ties echo the character of the workshop itself — understated, classic, and refined.

This tie is crafted from Silk Madder, featuring a diamond medallion print. Like all Cappelli ties, it is entirely hand-sewn in Naples, using the finest fabrics sourced from mills across Italy and the UK.

Tucked away in the winding alleys of Naples, E. &#x26; G. Cappelli is easy to miss — but step inside, and you’ll find a rare window into the old-world craft of Neapolitan tie making. Founded by Patrizio Cappelli and named after his sons, Ettore and Gaetano, the workshop reflects a deep-rooted commitment to tradition.Patrizio’s passion for English fabrics is evident in the exclusive cloths that fill his archive, many of which are no longer produced. His ties echo the character of the workshop itself — understated, classic, and refined.This tie is crafted from Silk Madder, featuring a diamond medallion print. Like all Cappelli ties, it is entirely hand-sewn in Naples, using the finest fabrics sourced from mills across Italy and the UK.

Silk Madder Diamond Medallion Hand-rolled Tie - Auburn

Auburn

Made in Japan just for us, The Armoury’s own button-down shirt features a generous and full collar roll, made from high quality materials. Wear it with a tie or open collared for a more casual look.

Made in Japan just for us, The Armoury’s own button-down shirt features a generous and full collar roll, made from high quality materials. Wear it with a tie or open collared for a more casual look.

Cotton Chambray Button-down Isaac Shirt - Blue / 14.5

Cotton Chambray Button-down Isaac Shirt

Blue / 14.5

The Armoury Model 3 suit features extended, unpadded shoulders and an enlarged sleevehead. With a lower buttoning point and notch lapels this suit has a timeless Neapolitan feel. Made up in a purple corduroy with dark horn buttons, we opted for one of our favorite Zegna blends, with just a touch of cashmere for super soft wear and more drape than your typical cotton cord.

Includes high rise, flat front Model A trousers to match.

The Armoury Model 3 suit features extended, unpadded shoulders and an enlarged sleevehead. With a lower buttoning point and notch lapels this suit has a timeless Neapolitan feel. Made up in a purple corduroy with dark horn buttons, we opted for one of our favorite Zegna blends, with just a touch of cashmere for super soft wear and more drape than your typical cotton cord.Includes high rise, flat front Model A trousers to match.

Cotton/Cashmere Corduroy Model 3A Suit - Purple / 46

Cotton/Cashmere Corduroy Model 3A Suit

Purple / 46

The Armoury’s own rollneck sweater is something that we’re very proud of. Made in conjunction with our favorite mill in Scotland, it’s created from some of the finest cashmere available. Dense and very warm, the raw fibers are at least 34mm in length and have a maximum thickness of 16.5 micron, resulting in a garment that will break-in to be even softer. Featuring a long fold over neck, ribbed cuffs and waistband, and our signature fit, it brings some understated elegance to a simple outfit.

The Armoury’s own rollneck sweater is something that we’re very proud of. Made in conjunction with our favorite mill in Scotland, it’s created from some of the finest cashmere available. Dense and very warm, the raw fibers are at least 34mm in length and have a maximum thickness of 16.5 micron, resulting in a garment that will break-in to be even softer. Featuring a long fold over neck, ribbed cuffs and waistband, and our signature fit, it brings some understated elegance to a simple outfit.

Cashmere Rollneck Sweater - Charcoal / 44

Cashmere Rollneck Sweater

Charcoal / 44

Our shoes are designed in collaboration with Yohei Fukuda, one of the greatest bespoke shoemakers in the world, and are made in Northampton, England where Fukuda once trained. With a low-slung silhouette and sweeping lines, we gave our shoe last a soft, almond toe while widening the ball of the foot to ensure comfort.

With a few subtle changes, including the addition of a smaller heel counter and oiled soles makes the shoes immediately more comfortable and allows for a faster break in process.

Our shoes are designed in collaboration with Yohei Fukuda, one of the greatest bespoke shoemakers in the world, and are made in Northampton, England where Fukuda once trained. With a low-slung silhouette and sweeping lines, we gave our shoe last a soft, almond toe while widening the ball of the foot to ensure comfort.With a few subtle changes, including the addition of a smaller heel counter and oiled soles makes the shoes immediately more comfortable and allows for a faster break in process.

Duane II Penny Loafer - Dark Brown Grain Calf / 6.5

Duane II Penny Loafer

Dark Brown Grain Calf / 6.5

The Armoury’s Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This jacket is made up in a dark green “doeskin” wool woven by Loro Piana. Similar to Melton wool in it’s hardwearing qualities thanks to its compact weave and short nap, but the longer fibers make it much softer. It has the heft stand up to cold Winter days and we think it looks great dressed up or down with sharp creased trousers or some well-worn corduroys.

The Armoury’s Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This jacket is made up in a dark green “doeskin” wool woven by Loro Piana. Similar to Melton wool in it’s hardwearing qualities thanks to its compact weave and short nap, but the longer fibers make it much softer. It has the heft stand up to cold Winter days and we think it looks great dressed up or down with sharp creased trousers or some well-worn corduroys.

Wool Doeskin Model 3 Sport Coat - Dark Green / 44

Wool Doeskin Model 3 Sport Coat

Dark Green / 44

The Armoury’s own crewneck sweater is made in conjunction with our favorite mill in Scotland and features a 4-ply lambswool construction that is warm and soft. Featuring a wide ribbed crewneck, ribbed cuffs and waistband, and our own slim fit, they are the perfect option with jeans and your overcoat.

The Armoury’s own crewneck sweater is made in conjunction with our favorite mill in Scotland and features a 4-ply lambswool construction that is warm and soft. Featuring a wide ribbed crewneck, ribbed cuffs and waistband, and our own slim fit, they are the perfect option with jeans and your overcoat.

4-ply Lambswool Crewneck Sweater - Mushroom / 44

4-ply Lambswool Crewneck Sweater

Mushroom / 44

In celebration of The Armoury’s 15th anniversary, we’re proud to present special pieces that honor designs that have been integral to our journey since 2010. These jeans are crafted in limited numbers, celebrating our milestone year.

Pierre Fournier opened Anatomica in Paris, France to revive traditional European fashion that had been lost from the men’s fashion scene. He developed an “anatomical” collection that was concerned with history, tradition, and his own fit. The 11618 jeans are exclusive to The Armoury, with an updated fit to the traditional 618 silhouette. This model sits higher on the hips, with a slight taper towards the hem. The denim itself is woven in Okayama, Japan in a right hand twill weave that will develop a soft handle over time. Additionally, the stitching uses a specially developed thread with a polyester core wrapped in cotton, combining the soft, natural feel of cotton with the strength and durability of polyester.

In celebration of The Armoury’s 15th anniversary, we’re proud to present special pieces that honor designs that have been integral to our journey since 2010. These jeans are crafted in limited numbers, celebrating our milestone year.Pierre Fournier opened Anatomica in Paris, France to revive traditional European fashion that had been lost from the men’s fashion scene. He developed an “anatomical” collection that was concerned with history, tradition, and his own fit. The 11618 jeans are exclusive to The Armoury, with an updated fit to the traditional 618 silhouette. This model sits higher on the hips, with a slight taper towards the hem. The denim itself is woven in Okayama, Japan in a right hand twill weave that will develop a soft handle over time. Additionally, the stitching uses a specially developed thread with a polyester core wrapped in cotton, combining the soft, natural feel of cotton with the strength and durability of polyester.

15th Anniversary 11618 Original Jeans - Indigo / 30

15th Anniversary 11618 Original Jeans

Indigo / 30

The Armoury’s Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This jacket is made up in a wool and cashmere gun club check woven by E. Thomas. Wear with a pair of cream trousers and cashmere rollneck for a classic Armoury Look.

The Armoury’s Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This jacket is made up in a wool and cashmere gun club check woven by E. Thomas. Wear with a pair of cream trousers and cashmere rollneck for a classic Armoury Look.

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