We take a closer look at Liverano's famous 'Cappotto Doppio Uso'
The name 'Ulster' is comes from an Irish province of the same name, whose people were known for wearing a certain style of tweed overcoat. Usually made out of a thick, heavy tweed, Ulster coats are meant to fit somewhat roomy in order to accommodate a heavy knit or thick tweed sport coat underneath. The lapels are notched in a such a way that they can be folded over when the coat is buttoned up.
The Florentine version of the Ulster coat is called “doppio uso” roughly translating to "two ways" based on that same idea of the coat's dual choices of closure. In Tuscany, the Doppio Uso is often made from Casentino wool with a wolf or fox fur collar. The piped contrasting edges and equally contrasting wool lining was the ultimate sign of a well executed garment.
The Liverano Ulster is a true work of art. The pocket flaps are curved at the font, and angled straight towards the back. The lapels are perfectly balanced and tailored to stand and frame your face in the best possible way. This is achieved by a small cut made on the underside of the collar, which is then filled with the same fabric, only it is sewn in the opposite direction. The arms are curved to match your posture, and the shoulder is unmistakably Liverano. Coats like these are why we do what we do.
Antonio Liverano began his tailoring house in 1948, with his Doppio Uso at the core of his offerings. He considers the Liverano Ulster to be a classic interpretation, with modern updates making it easier to wear for both younger and older customers; men and women alike. Throughout his career, this coat has been copied many times, but it's never truly the same. Liverano has watched as many coats have been handed down from father to sons. Due to the use of heavier and tougher fabrics, the coat takes almost twice as long to make compared to a standard jacket.
If you could peer into the closets of some of the world's best dressed men, you'd see that many have one piece in common. A Liverano Ulster. Below, we did just that, ask our friends and colleagues to tell us about their coats and what makes them special.
"It is by far the favourite piece in my entire wardrobe. It is with this piece that Liverano demonstrated how flattering and pleasing the classic menswear silhouette can be. Wearing his Ulster is one of the biggest joys of any winter!"
"The Liverano Ulster Coat or Doppio Uso remains the most beautiful version of the Ulster Coat style I have ever seen. It has perfect proportions, beautiful details and is the signature piece of Antonio Liverano."
We've been attending the semi-annual menswear gathering for a decade. Here we follow co-founder Mark Cho through Florence.
We took our Linen Model 3B suit in Stone and offered three looks, showing how it can be broken up, yet still maintain an elevated appeal.
We hosted our friends from Sotheby’s for a special preview of their latest auctions | A Life & Legacy: The Joanne Woodward & Paul Newman Collection & Important Watches