We set about to design the quintessential tuxedo that would have a place in every man’s wardrobe. The dramatic peak lapel are striking but no details, such as the prayer buttons, are too small.
The Classic Tuxedo
Our Model 4 Tuxedo features wide peak lapels, a lightly roped shoulder with a clean but generous sleevehead, and a lower buttoning point than our other jackets. The inky black wool/mohair fabric is a versatile weight for most temperatures and is complemented with satin facings. In the pursuit of understated elegance we’ve focussed on the details such as the jetted pockets, a ventless back, and old-school prayer buttons. We recommend finishing them with a plain hem.
One of the most distinctive features on any jacket is the shoulder. The Model 4 features an unpadded, natural shoulder line which allows it to sit close to the body.
The extended shoulder gives the appearance of a more powerful silhouette. This flattering effect is created by extending the canvas slightly into the sleeve head, giving the sleeve slight ‘rollino’ sleeve. This is typical of many Florentine style jackets, like those of Liverano & Liverano.
The canvas is the skeleton of the jacket, providing body and structure to the cloth. With a full floating canvas we achieve the deep roll of the lapel, full chest and even the extended shoulder mentioned above.
A detail usually found on bespoke or custom tuxedos, the Model 4 features prayer buttons at the front closure. Prayer buttons are a two buttons sewn together to creates an angled closure akin to hands joined in prayer.
Being a single button closure, unlike our standard 3 roll 2 on single breasted jackets, the prayer buttons add an interesting detail to an otherwise minimal front.
There is an idea within formal dress to cover all seams that would otherwise be visible on more casual tailoring. Following this tradition we use a satin silk fabric to cover the labels, along the side seam of the trousers and over the buttons.
We also recommend wearing a cummerbund. The idea of which is to cover the "seam" or transition from the shirt to the trouser waistband.
The lapel on our Model 4 is nothing short of dramatic. Wider than our standard notch lapel and faced in satin silk, the lapel is long and straight to flatter the waist. We balanced the angle of the lapel’s gorge line to subtly direct attention to the wearers face.
We set out with the goal of creating a range of tailoring that would be ready for any occasion. Over a decade we’ve designed and refined the collection in partnership with Ring Jacket, a small Japanese manufacturer.
Ring Jacket has a rich history of more than 60 years in ready-to-wear and custom garments. We partnered with them because of their consistency, attention to detail and ability to give made-to-measure garments what can only be described as three dimensional ‘life’.
Ring Jacket pattern makers visit The Armoury NYC three times a year for trunk shows offering made-to-measure services and exclusive fabrics.