Our curated selection of shirts from Naples, Hong Kong, Japan, the U.K. and more.

Shirts

An afternoon in Manhattan with our friends, Alex and Jennifer.

At Home with the Isaac Shirt

If you were shopping for a new trouser wardrobe a hundred years ago, you could get everything you needed in about a day. The average man's wardrobe in the early 20th century was monastic by today's standards. Most men wore suits for both work and leisure, which meant their trousers were picked out for them. If they wanted to switch things up, they swapped out their suit pants for white flannels and white shoes.

A shift happened sometime around the 1920s. Ivy League students wanted something more comfortable they could wear for spectator sport. American soldiers returning home from Western Europe also raided department stores for sportier clothes. This was the start of sport coat culture — the first time odd jackets became widely adopted and, with it, the need for more trousers. By the 1970s, the number trouser options was downright dizzying, especially as designers came up with various weights, weaves, colors, fibers, and finishes for something a simple as a pair of pants.

The good news is that you can build a reliable trouser wardrobe if you stick to some fundamental principles. The first is to stay close to basic colors, namely grey and tan. These can be worn with almost any kind of jacket. Since tailored outfits typically keep the focus up top – centered on the v-shape created by a jacket, tie, and shirt – you want the trousers to be simple and visually undemanding.

"When a guy comes in, we always start with what they want to get out of their trouser wardrobe," says Alan See, The Armoury's co-founder. "A wardrobe built for a conservative business environment will be different from one primarily used for casual purposes. It also depends on the climate and the region."

Most people, however, will benefit from building out their grey trousers first. Year-round options can be found in Draper's Ascot book, which has four-ply worsteds in light- and mid-grey. Darker charcoal shades can be found in Draper's Five Star and Dugdale Bros’s New Fine Worsteds. "Charcoal trousers can be handy, but it's surprisingly hard to find good fabrics in this color,” says Mark Cho, the shop's other co-founder. “We like charcoals that have a bit of visual depth to them, so they don’t look flat.”

Once you have trousers that can work most of the year, it's time to get some seasonal variety. Hight-twist, open weave wools, such as those from Minnis Fresco and Holland & Sherry's Crispaire, are not only more durable, they're also breathable. "For summer weekends, it's chinos," adds Alan. "For more conservative guys, we recommend neutral shades in beige. But if a guy likes to wear more color in his wardrobe, we suggest khakis that have a slightly yellower cast. A warmer shade allows them to pair beige trousers with brighter colors." There's no shortage of suitable books when it comes to cotton. W. Bill, Holland & Sherry, Drapers, Brisbane Moss, and Spence Bryson all have attractive options.

"The thing about cotton is that you don't want to go too lightweight," says Mark. "Otherwise, chinos can end up looking like pajamas. Slightly heavier cotton will hold its shape better." Alan notes he especially likes the cottons in Brisbane Moss' Tennyson bunch, which are heavy enough to hold a crease.

The same concept applies for fall/winter. Grey and tan will always be your most versatile colors, but you’ll want something cozier for the weather. If you work in a conservative environment, there will always be a place for flannel and gabardine ("we like them in lighter weights in Hong Kong, given the humidity," says Alan). Cotton varieties such as moleskin, corduroy, and brushed cotton can then be used in more casual settings or the weekend. "The British are known for making flannels with a slightly colder, yellow cast, which looks great with black shoes," says Mark. "Fox Flannel and Holland & Sherry are particularly good. Especially in light- and mid-grey, where you can see more of the milling in the finish."

"Some guys find they wear trousers out quickly," says Mark. "For those guys, we often recommend high-twist wool in the summer and then a covert cloth in the winter. Covert cloth is a tightly woven twill, so it's hard-wearing. Holland & Sherry's Dakota bunch has some particularly nice shades that almost look like gabardine. Since covert, like gabardine, can look a bit shiny, I find they do better in lighter colors such as beige."

Once you have some solid greys and tans, you can expand your trouser wardrobe into different directions. "After beige, olive is a useful color, particularly in fabrics such as Fresco or cotton," says Mark. “The color looks great with cream or brown sports jackets. Navy can also be good, but you don't want to go too dark. Otherwise, they can look like orphaned suit pants. I like how dark blue trousers, ones that are just a shade darker than denim, look with grey sports jackets."

There are also very casual seasonal varieties. Flecked Donegal tweeds, especially in mid-brown, can be worn in the winter months. But, as Alan notes, you want something densely woven so it'll hold its shape. "Italian Donegals tend to be too loose for trousers, so they work better for jackets."

Mark also adds that, while he occasionally wears linen trousers with sport coats, he mostly uses the material for either suits or casual ensembles. "The heavier, the better," he adds. “The Irish linens are nice because they’re not too transparent.”

Style-wise, we like cotton trousers of any variety to be flat-front. "Sometimes it can be hard to make cotton pleats lay right," notes Mark. Wool trousers, on the other hand, can go either way. "With wool trousers, I prefer them to be pleated, but not too full across the lap," Mark continues. "With a pleat, you add just a little room to the top half of the trousers, which means you can still have a moderate leg opening and get a taper that adds shape. When trousers are too slim up top, you have to taper the leg more aggressively to achieve the same silhouette, which can look awkward at the bottom. It’s all about relative proportions.“

The standard Armoury style is also a little higher in the rise, something that sits above the hip bone, although a lot depends on the customer's body type and preferences. "It's about striking a balance," says Alan. "In the past, people also wanted very slim trousers, and we needed to push them towards something a little fuller so the pants would drape properly. But nowadays, we're seeing more people value comfort, so things are swinging back towards the middle of the road.“

Other details, such as the inclusion of side tab adjusters, belt loops, or suspender buttons, are just personal preference. Suspenders will make your trousers look their best, as they help them hang properly, but some men find them inconvenient or even archaic. Side tabs and belt loops can be good alternatives, with the side adjusters resulting in a cleaning looking line between the trouser and shirt. "Except for tuxedos, I always recommend getting cuffs though," says Mark. "The bit of weight allows the trousers to hang straighter." Plus, as Alan notes, most of our tailoring is Italian and will look better with cuffed hems.

“Sometimes a guy will come in and look at our ready-made trouser selection. A question we’ll often hear is, ‘what can these be worn with?” says Alan. "When in doubt, wear it with a navy sport coat. That almost always works."

Trousers

This season's trousers are made from worsted Italian flannel, original Irish donegal, Loro Piana corduroy and more.

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including handsewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a donegal wool from Magee of Donegal, Ireland perfect for the warmer months. This model features Pommella’s side tab waistband.

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including handsewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a donegal wool from Magee of Donegal, Ireland perfect for the warmer months. This model features Pommella’s side tab waistband.

Wool Donegal Side Tab Trousers - Gravel / 46

Wool Donegal Side Tab Trousers

Gravel / 46

Our very own Model A trousers from Ring Jacket. Made up in a mid-weight cotton/wool corduroy by Loro Piana, and featuring a medium wale, we’ve created what we feel is a great flat front fit. Wear them with or without a cuff for a casual cold weather outfit.

Our very own Model A trousers from Ring Jacket. Made up in a mid-weight cotton/wool corduroy by Loro Piana, and featuring a medium wale, we’ve created what we feel is a great flat front fit. Wear them with or without a cuff for a casual cold weather outfit.

Cotton/Wool/ Corduroy Model A Trousers - Honey / 46

Cotton/Wool/ Corduroy Model A Trousers

Honey / 46

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including hand-sewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a versatile 100% Worsted Wool Neapolitan Flannel, perfect for the cooler months featuring a new side tab waistband.

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including hand-sewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a versatile 100% Worsted Wool Neapolitan Flannel, perfect for the cooler months featuring a new side tab waistband.

Flannel Side Tab Trousers - Charcoal / 46

Flannel Side Tab Trousers

Charcoal / 46

Flannel Side Tab Trousers - Mid Grey / 44

Mid Grey / 44

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including handsewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a 100% cotton moleskin fabric, which we had reversed in order to have the rough side of the cloth exposed for harder wearing, while the comfortable brushed side faces the interior. Inspired by Australian workwear trousers, this pair has been given more casual details, such as western style pockets and a clean front. These trousers are a perfect casual choice for the cooler months.

Lino Pommella, previously the head trouser cutter at Rubinacci, started his own tailoring house specializing in Neapolitan trousers. Lino comes from a family with over 50 years of bespoke trouser experience. Each garment is made in a slim, flattering cut while maintaining a clean line throughout the leg. Each pair is finished with handmade details, including handsewn button holes and bar tacks. Pommella uses premium fabrics from mills around the world. This model is made up in a 100% cotton moleskin fabric, which we had reversed in order to have the rough side of the cloth exposed for harder wearing, while the comfortable brushed side faces the interior. Inspired by Australian workwear trousers, this pair has been given more casual details, such as western style pockets and a clean front. These trousers are a perfect casual choice for the cooler months.

Reverse Moleskin AUS1 Trousers - Cream / 46

Reverse Moleskin AUS1 Trousers

Cream / 46

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. With a slim leg, a slightly higher rise, and an extended waistband, this flat-front model in heavy taupe covert cloth is elegant and warm; a nod to old school dressing.

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. With a slim leg, a slightly higher rise, and an extended waistband, this flat-front model in heavy taupe covert cloth is elegant and warm; a nod to old school dressing.

Flat-Front Covert Cloth Trousers - Taupe / 44

Flat-Front Covert Cloth Trousers

Taupe / 44

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. With a slim leg, a slightly higher rise, and an extended waistband, the Armoury single-pleat Rota trouser in dark chocolate flannel is perfect for the winter months.

Specializing solely in trousers, Rota has been using the same production methods for over 50 years in their workshop in Fidenza, Italy. With a slim leg, a slightly higher rise, and an extended waistband, the Armoury single-pleat Rota trouser in dark chocolate flannel is perfect for the winter months.

Single-Pleat Flannel Trousers - Chocolate / 44

Single-Pleat Flannel Trousers

Chocolate / 44

The Armoury is happy to introduce Mr. Hayato Osaku’s namesake brand, Osaku Trouser to our artisanal offerings. Like the majority of today’s expert tailors, Osaku-san gained experience working for sartorial houses such as Salone Ondata and more recently, Sartoria Ciccio. While working with Ciccio, Osaku-san honed in his own designs which launched his brand into the standalone atelier he has today. 

The “AO” Osaku Flat Front trouser has a mid rise, with more room in the hip, slim in the thigh, and features a slight taper towards the cuff. The AO trouser also features front and back darts to help provide a clean look and fit.

The Armoury is happy to introduce Mr. Hayato Osaku’s namesake brand, Osaku Trouser to our artisanal offerings. Like the majority of today’s expert tailors, Osaku-san gained experience working for sartorial houses such as Salone Ondata and more recently, Sartoria Ciccio. While working with Ciccio, Osaku-san honed in his own designs which launched his brand into the standalone atelier he has today. The “AO” Osaku Flat Front trouser has a mid rise, with more room in the hip, slim in the thigh, and features a slight taper towards the cuff. The AO trouser also features front and back darts to help provide a clean look and fit.

Flat-front Trousers - Oyster / 46

Flat-front Trousers

Oyster / 46

The Armoury is happy to introduce Mr. Hayato Osaku’s namesake brand, Osaku Trouser to our artisanal offerings. Like the majority of today’s expert tailors, Osaku-san gained experience working for sartorial houses such as Salone Ondata and more recently, Sartoria Ciccio. While working with Ciccio, Osaku-san honed in his own designs which launched his brand into the standalone atelier he has today. 

The “CO” Osaku pleated trouser has a mid-rise, with more room in the hip, slim in the thigh, and features a slight taper towards the cuff. The CO trouser also features Daks style side adjusters and two front pleats to give you a clean, comfortable fit. This pair is made in a high twist wool from New Zealand.

The Armoury is happy to introduce Mr. Hayato Osaku’s namesake brand, Osaku Trouser to our artisanal offerings. Like the majority of today’s expert tailors, Osaku-san gained experience working for sartorial houses such as Salone Ondata and more recently, Sartoria Ciccio. While working with Ciccio, Osaku-san honed in his own designs which launched his brand into the standalone atelier he has today. The “CO” Osaku pleated trouser has a mid-rise, with more room in the hip, slim in the thigh, and features a slight taper towards the cuff. The CO trouser also features Daks style side adjusters and two front pleats to give you a clean, comfortable fit. This pair is made in a high twist wool from New Zealand.

New Zealand Wool Pleated CO Trousers - Grey / 46

New Zealand Wool Pleated CO Trousers

Grey / 46

Our guide to building a wardrobe of classic trousers for all seasons.

Building a Basic Trouser Wardrobe

We set out to make a collection of tailoring that marries the artistry of Italian style with the precision of Japanese manufacturing.

Over several years we’ve refined and added new models to suit a range of personal styles and situations; from everyday suits and sport coats to Ivy style jackets and formalwear.

We call our aesthetic ‘international classic’ as it references classic tailoring traditions from around the world and combines them for a contemporary man. We go to great lengths to source the best materials from British and Italian mills and to ensure that no detail is left unconsidered.

Ring Jacket has over 60 years of experience making both ready-to-wear and custom garments in Japan. We selected them as our partners to produce The Armoury tailoring because of their consistency, attention to detail and ability to give garments what we only described as three dimensional ‘life’.

Ring Jacket offer the best value, quality and consistency for ready-to-wear that we have seen. The Ring Jacket team visit The Armoury NYC three times a year for trunk shows.

The numerical reference of the models represent nothing more than the order in which they were developed. However, each model fulfils a specific purpose — whether that be for travel with the Model 7, or the the 4 which was primarily intended as a tuxedo.

Each year we produce our tailoring in small batches of hard to find, often exclusive fabrics but we also encourage experimentation with fabric choices through our custom program.

Since our first version in 2011 the Model 1 has undergone many iterations and refinements. It is unique to our house tailoring range due to the slight shoulder pad to enhance the wearer’s presence.

The Model 3 is the core of our tailoring range and our go-to for many situations. It’s soft, unstructured construction is a nod to Italian tailoring which not only makes it supremely comfortable but also flattering.

We set about to design the quintessential tuxedo that would have a place in every man’s wardrobe. The dramatic peak lapel are striking but no details, such as the prayer buttons, are too small.

The double-breasted Model 6 is a perennial favorite at The Armoury. The lower, more horizontal lapel sweeps out straight and wide for a more classic look that is both classic and wearable.

The Model 7 was our answer to those looking for a travel sport coat. The ever popular Model 3 model lent its fit and dimensions but we removed all canvassing and lining to make it as light and breezy as possible.

The Model 11 is our take on the classic Ivy League sack jacket. As the most casual tailoring model that we offer it works well in classic tweeds and year round in a variety of weights of cotton.

The Model 12 is a versatile form based on workwear jackets of the 1930’s. With an emphasis on comfort and versatility, The Model 12 can be worn casually with chinos or denim as well as dressed up with wool trousers.

Our Model 15 is a tribute to the great city of Florence. Featuring a soft unpadded shoulder, the canvas is extended past the sleeve head providing more structure and added extension. One of the most prominent features is the lack of a front dart, achieved through use of an angled side dart, which hides cleanly behind the arm of the wearer.

Our double-breasted Model 16 sport coat is inspired by jackets of the 1930’s. It's incredibly classic and wearable and features a lower, more horizontal lapel that sweeps out wide and straight.

The Armoury Model 1

The Model 3 sits at the core of our tailoring offerings. With no padding and a raised armhole, it is supremely comfortable. The Model 3 mixes together a world of tailoring to exemplify the term international classic.

The Armoury Model 3 Sport Coats

The Armoury’s own Model 3 suit features the same extended, unpadded shoulders and enlarged sleevehead as our Model 3 sport coat. We’ve maintained the lower buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. 

The Armoury Model 3 Suits

Shop The Armoury's curated formal wear collection including our tuxedo, opera pump, bowties, cummerbund, tuxedo shirts and other necessities.

Formal Wear Collection

A very classic and masculine look, with the same comfort of our Model 3. We've worked on the balance between a dramatic silhouette and formal elegance.

The Armoury Model 6

The Model 7 forgoes canvassing and linings to create a sport coat that fits more like a sweater than a jacket. Designed for comfort and wearability, the Model 7 can easily be packed for travel.

The Armoury Model 7

The Armoury’s own Model 11 is our take on the classic Ivy League sack jacket. Removing the front dart, as well as changing the lapel and pockets, gives this model its on distinct look. 

The Armoury Model 11

The Model 12

The Model 15

The double-breasted Model 16 sport coat is inspired by jackets of the 1930’s. Featuring a lower, more horizontal lapel that sweeps out wide and straight, it’s incredibly classic and wearable.

The Model 16

Over the last decade we’ve created a collection of sport coats and suits to suit every occasion. Here we take a look at the each of these models.

A Guide to The Armoury by Ring Jacket Tailoring

In the fall and winter months, navigating through the various materials available for sport coats can feel like almost second-nature. Many men are familiar with the virtues of tweed, flannel, and corduroy. But once the weather turns warm, things aren’t so clear. What’s the springtime equivalent of Thornproof or Donegal? Is linen right for sport coats or only suits?

With spring around the corner, we sat down with our co-founder Mark Cho to talk about what he thinks should be in a warm-weather sport coat wardrobe. For men who find themselves more in casual environments, having a few seasonal sport coats means being able to be dress for different situations. Mark discusses how to expand past the basics, as well as choose fabrics for a custom order this coming season.

A solid navy sport coat is the workhorse in your wardrobe. It’s something you can wear to business-casual offices, to special dinners, and even for travel. In the spring and summer months, however, you want something lightweight, airy, and breathable. “The problem with lightweight cloths is that sometimes they can get too thin and flat,” Mark explains. “This season, we found a deep navy twill that has a bit of texture, which will look more interesting in outfits, but still work for the warmer weather.” Our navy sport coats come in two designs: a flapped pocket version that’s a bit dressier, and then a patched pocket design that’s a bit more casual.

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. The fabric is woven by Lanificio di Pray in northernmost Italy, close to the Swiss border. The wool/cotton blend provides a natural stretch that makes this an easy sport coat to wear through the warmer months.

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. The fabric is woven by Lanificio di Pray in northernmost Italy, close to the Swiss border. The wool/cotton blend provides a natural stretch that makes this an easy sport coat to wear through the warmer months.

Wool/Cotton Natural Stretch Model 3 Sport Coat - Navy / 46

Wool/Cotton Natural Stretch Model 3 Sport Coat

Navy / 46

The Armoury’s latest Model 6 double breasted sport coat is something we’ve worked very hard on. Featuring a lower, more horizontal lapel that sweeps out wide and straight, it’s incredibly classic and wearable. We’ve also lowered the breast pocket, extended the shoulders, and kept everything soft for a timeless feel.The fabric is woven by Lanificio di Pray in northernmost Italy, close to the Swiss border. The wool/cotton blend provides a natural stretch that makes this a great alternative option for a traditional navy blazer.

The Armoury’s latest Model 6 double breasted sport coat is something we’ve worked very hard on. Featuring a lower, more horizontal lapel that sweeps out wide and straight, it’s incredibly classic and wearable. We’ve also lowered the breast pocket, extended the shoulders, and kept everything soft for a timeless feel.The fabric is woven by Lanificio di Pray in northernmost Italy, close to the Swiss border. The wool/cotton blend provides a natural stretch that makes this a great alternative option for a traditional navy blazer.

Wool/Cotton Natural Stretch Model 6 Sport Coat - Navy / 48

Wool/Cotton Natural Stretch Model 6 Sport Coat

Navy / 48

If you already have a summer navy sport coat, consider a dark blue jacket with a subtle pattern. Patterned sport coats are a bit less formal than their solid-colored counterparts, but this monochromatic glen plaid is smart enough for most offices. For men who don’t wear a tie often, a patterned jacket can also visually substitute for the bit of silk at your neck.

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. The fabric is woven by Lanificio di Pray in northernmost Italy, close to the Swiss border.

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. The fabric is woven by Lanificio di Pray in northernmost Italy, close to the Swiss border.

Wool Glencheck Model 3 Sport Coat - Dark Navy / 46

Wool Glencheck Model 3 Sport Coat

Dark Navy / 46

After navy, earth tones are always next. Mark recommends starting with the lighter shades of oatmeal. “I tend to think of light brown as being a perfect summer color, whereas dark brown is for winter.” Since a solid-colored, light brown summer sport coat can look plain, however, we went with two patterned options. The first is what’s colloquially known as a worsted tweed or “faux tweed.” The term refers to how the pattern mimics the district checks found on traditional tweeds but rendered in a hard finished, worsted yarn. “Faux tweeds” are the city version of country cloth. They’re rustic but airy, light, and comfortable to wear on hot, humid days.  

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This fabric comes from Italian mill E. Thomas. Established by Mr. Ernesto Thomas in Brusimpiano, Italy in 1922, E. Thomas specializes in the production of top quality fabrics made from the most sought after Australian wools.

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This fabric comes from Italian mill E. Thomas. Established by Mr. Ernesto Thomas in Brusimpiano, Italy in 1922, E. Thomas specializes in the production of top quality fabrics made from the most sought after Australian wools.

Silk/Linen/Wool Check Model 3 Sport Coat - Beige / 46

Silk/Linen/Wool Check Model 3 Sport Coat

Beige / 46

Our second light brown sport coat is a glen plaid with a sage green overcheck. Made from a lustrous silk fabric, Mark thinks it makes for the perfect spring/summer jacketing. “The silk content lends a bit of sheen, and I tend to think that patterned sport coats in the summer benefit from a touch of sheen,” he explains. “Whereas, when you think of fall and winter fabrics, they tend to be very matte.” Silk has a reputation for wearing warm, but it’s also an exceptionally strong fiber. Weavers use it in summer fabrics because the fiber is strong enough to make an open-weave, breathable fabric that’s both lightweight and durable. 

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. The fabric, made entirely of fine silk, is woven by Lanificio di Pray in northernmost Italy, close to the Swiss border.

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. The fabric, made entirely of fine silk, is woven by Lanificio di Pray in northernmost Italy, close to the Swiss border.

Silk Prince of Wales Model 3 Sport Coat - Tan/Brown/Green / 46

Silk Prince of Wales Model 3 Sport Coat

Tan/Brown/Green / 46

Once you have a couple of sport coats in primary colors such as dark blue and light brown, it’s worth skipping over into the slightly more adventurous section of earth tones. Pale greens with a low tint, such as olive and sage, can be worn with trousers in tan, cream, and grey. We have a patterned sage green sport coat this season with a saddle brown overcheck, which will pick up the color in your watch strap and shoes. 

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This jacket is made up in fine wool with a large windowpane check from Carlo Barbera.

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This jacket is made up in fine wool with a large windowpane check from Carlo Barbera.

Wool Windowpane Model 3 Sport Coat - Sage/Peach / 46

Wool Windowpane Model 3 Sport Coat

Sage/Peach / 46

For our solid-colored, olive sport coat, Mark added some detailing to give the jacket some visual punch. “The pockets are flapped and have a gusset, which gives the coat a sporty look.” Pair that jacket with a chambray shirt and some jeans for the weekend.

The Armoury’s own Model 11 is our take on the classic Ivy League sack jacket. Removing the front dart, as well as changing the lapel and pockets, gives this model its on distinct look. It features the same unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleeve head as our Model 3 jackets and is extremely comfortable with an exceptional range of motion. We’ve widened the shoulders slightly and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This model is made up of a wool/silk/linen blend in an olive color-way.

The Armoury’s own Model 11 is our take on the classic Ivy League sack jacket. Removing the front dart, as well as changing the lapel and pockets, gives this model its on distinct look. It features the same unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleeve head as our Model 3 jackets and is extremely comfortable with an exceptional range of motion. We’ve widened the shoulders slightly and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This model is made up of a wool/silk/linen blend in an olive color-way.

Wool/Silk/Linen Twill Model 11 Sport Coat - Olive / 46

Wool/Silk/Linen Twill Model 11 Sport Coat

Olive / 46

A cotton suit isn’t a sport coat, but it can be worn as one. You can pair the jacket with chinos, jeans, or casual tailored trousers. With matching pants, you have an in-between suit that’s dressier than a sport coat but less formal than a worsted two-piece. We like cotton suits simply because they’re fun to wear. “In the dead of summer, a cotton suit will feel a bit hot,” Mark admits. “But it’s perfect for spring and fall.” Our cotton suit this season comes in a bright blue that’s perfect for holidays, brunch, and casual springtime gatherings.

The Armoury’s own Model 11 is our take on the classic Ivy League sack jacket. Removing the front dart, as well as changing the lapel and pockets, gives this model its on distinct look. It features the same unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleeve head as our Model 3 jackets and is extremely comfortable with an exceptional range of motion. We’ve widened the shoulders slightly and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This model is made up in a cotton twill from Italian mill Solbiati, and paired with our Model A trouser for a casual summer suit.

Includes flat front Model A trousers to match.

The Armoury’s own Model 11 is our take on the classic Ivy League sack jacket. Removing the front dart, as well as changing the lapel and pockets, gives this model its on distinct look. It features the same unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleeve head as our Model 3 jackets and is extremely comfortable with an exceptional range of motion. We’ve widened the shoulders slightly and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This model is made up in a cotton twill from Italian mill Solbiati, and paired with our Model A trouser for a casual summer suit.Includes flat front Model A trousers to match.

Cotton Twill Model 11A Suit - Dark Blue / 46

Cotton Twill Model 11A Suit

Dark Blue / 46

Once you have the basics covered, the rest of your wardrobe should be about personal expression. Madras is an unabashedly colorful, plain-weave fabric that first came into the United States by way of Madras, a city in India that’s now known as Chennai. By tradition, the madras is made with vegetable dyes, which is why it’s been known to bleed, giving it a distinctive blurred look with wash and wear (modern madras is now colorfast). Following the First World War, madras found favor with American men, particularly of college-age, who liked wearing it as summertime sport coats, trousers, and sport shirts. Today, it’s a staple of classic American style. “I like wearing madras sport coats with blue jeans,” says Mark. “It’s an old Ivy look for me.”

Orazio Luciano is a stalwart of Neapolitan tailoring. Orazio Luciano sport coats are completely handmade in the traditional Neapolitan style with a soft, spalla camicia, generous lapels, and the signature barchetta breast pocket. The entire garment is fully handmade, from the buttonholes, to the hand-set sleeves, collar, and pic-stitched seams.

We’ve made this sport coat up in a crisp linen madras to make for a lightweight and breathable summer jacket.

Orazio Luciano is a stalwart of Neapolitan tailoring. Orazio Luciano sport coats are completely handmade in the traditional Neapolitan style with a soft, spalla camicia, generous lapels, and the signature barchetta breast pocket. The entire garment is fully handmade, from the buttonholes, to the hand-set sleeves, collar, and pic-stitched seams.We’ve made this sport coat up in a crisp linen madras to make for a lightweight and breathable summer jacket.

Linen Madras Sport Coat - Green/Red/Blue / 48

Linen Madras Sport Coat

Green/Red/Blue / 48

Seersucker is the other prep staple. “We went with a wool seersucker, which wears cooler than your typical wool,” Mark explains. “In wool, the stripe doesn’t look so well-defined. It’s a bit softer and thus easier to wear. There’s always the danger of seersucker looking like pajamas. But this feels fun and casual, while at the same time looking special and dressy. Seersucker is traditionally worn as a suit, but we also like it as a jacket. You can wear it with dark grey trousers or white jeans.”

The Armoury’s own Model 7 suit is based off the silhouette of our ever popular Model 3 model, however the Model 7 completely forgoes canvassing and linings to create a jacket that fits more like a sweater. Designed for comfort and wearability, the Model 7 can easily be packed for travel. This version is made up in an airy wool seerscuker from Vitale Barberis Canonico, making for an exceptionally light jacket. One of the larger mills we work with, VBC has produced some of our favorite exclusive core fabrics, as well as small batch fabrics such as this. VBC’s history goes back over 350 years, and they continue to produce some of the best fabrics in Italy today.

Includes high rise, flat front Model A trousers to match.

The Armoury’s own Model 7 suit is based off the silhouette of our ever popular Model 3 model, however the Model 7 completely forgoes canvassing and linings to create a jacket that fits more like a sweater. Designed for comfort and wearability, the Model 7 can easily be packed for travel. This version is made up in an airy wool seerscuker from Vitale Barberis Canonico, making for an exceptionally light jacket. One of the larger mills we work with, VBC has produced some of our favorite exclusive core fabrics, as well as small batch fabrics such as this. VBC’s history goes back over 350 years, and they continue to produce some of the best fabrics in Italy today.Includes high rise, flat front Model A trousers to match.

Wool Seersucker Model 7A Suit - White/Grey / 46

Wool Seersucker Model 7A Suit

White/Grey / 46

For the unabashedly preppy, we also have a boating blazer this season made from a Fox Brothers cloth. ”I actually really like rowing blazers,” Mark beams. “We kept it very conservative. Ours is two colors. This isn’t something you can wear all the time, but it’s fun you’re able to break it out.”

The Armoury’s own Model 7 travel sport coat model is based off the silhouette of our ever popular Model 3 model, however the Model 7 completely forgoes canvassing and linings to create a sport coat that fits more like a sweater than a jacket. Designed for comfort and wearability, the Model 7 can easily be packed for travel. This version is made up in a light weight worsted twill by Fox Brothers, a great casual option to pair with denim and cotton trousers.

The Armoury’s own Model 7 travel sport coat model is based off the silhouette of our ever popular Model 3 model, however the Model 7 completely forgoes canvassing and linings to create a sport coat that fits more like a sweater than a jacket. Designed for comfort and wearability, the Model 7 can easily be packed for travel. This version is made up in a light weight worsted twill by Fox Brothers, a great casual option to pair with denim and cotton trousers.

Wool Stripe Model 7 Sport Coat - Navy/Ivory / 44

Wool Stripe Model 7 Sport Coat

Navy/Ivory / 44

Gray sport coats are sometimes contentious because they can look too much like orphaned suit jackets. But this season, we found a grey fabric that has a large scale herringbone that reminded us of grey Harris tweeds. Mark recommends wearing this one with pale grey trousers, white jeans, or cream chinos.

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This jacket is made up in wool/silk/linen blend with a large check pattern from Carlo Barbera.

The Armoury’s own Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders a touch and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. This jacket is made up in wool/silk/linen blend with a large check pattern from Carlo Barbera.

Wool/Silk/Linen Herringbone Model 3 Sport Coat - Grey / 46

Wool/Silk/Linen Herringbone Model 3 Sport Coat

Finally, Mark has some special recommendations for customers looking to order a custom springtime sport coat. He likes Marling and Evans for their crisp hand and subdued designs, then Fox Brothers for their colors and patterns. For that perfect navy summer sport coat, Mark recommends Drapers’ hopsack and mesh materials. “I also like linen sport coats. Years ago, Liverano made me a linen suit, but I wear the jacket as a sport coat more than anything else,” he says. “Funny enough, I find linen sport coats are easier to wear in cream than other colors. The color is already a bit odd by itself, which makes me feel less concerned about the matching between a rumpled jacket and pressed trousers. Whereas, I would be more concerned if it were a navy linen sport coat and grey trousers.” As for where to find that perfect cream linen cloth for this season? Mark suggests digging through our Spence Bryson swatches.  

This season's collection is one our most well-rounded yet, with new pieces from old friends and new artisans alike. You'll find a wide array of textures, from crisp linens to tropical wool. Our classic silvery gray and summer navy are augmented by sage, dusty peach, cream and gold.

Spring/Summer 2020

Armoury co-founder Mark Cho gives his recommendations for a well rounded Spring/Summer Sport Coat wardrobe with highlights from our new collection.

A Guide to Spring/Summer Tailoring

The Real McCoy’s take inspiration from vintage Americana, going to extraordinary lengths to recreate period-accurate textiles and manufacturing methods for each garment. Each piece lives up to the historical standards and quality of their era.

The M-65 Field Jacket is iconic from it’s use on the battlefield, through pop culture and now to vintage collectors over 60 years later. It is the definitive field jacket and one of the signifying designs in menswear history. The Real McCoy’s have taken the original and examined the details down to the finest points, recreated from deadstock parts and manufactured their own cloth to be as close to the original as possible.

In a special collaboration, The Real McCoy’s help us put our own twist on the tried and true design. Based on the First Pattern M-65, we removed the velcro badge holders from the chest panel and added M-51 style cuffs. The standout change is our new original color: dark navy, a departure from the typical olive green seen on most examples.

The Real McCoy’s take inspiration from vintage Americana, going to extraordinary lengths to recreate period-accurate textiles and manufacturing methods for each garment. Each piece lives up to the historical standards and quality of their era.The M-65 Field Jacket is iconic from it’s use on the battlefield, through pop culture and now to vintage collectors over 60 years later. It is the definitive field jacket and one of the signifying designs in menswear history. The Real McCoy’s have taken the original and examined the details down to the finest points, recreated from deadstock parts and manufactured their own cloth to be as close to the original as possible.In a special collaboration, The Real McCoy’s help us put our own twist on the tried and true design. Based on the First Pattern M-65, we removed the velcro badge holders from the chest panel and added M-51 style cuffs. The standout change is our new original color: dark navy, a departure from the typical olive green seen on most examples.

The Real McCoy’s x The Armoury 1st Pattern M-65 Field Jacket - Navy / Small

The Real McCoy’s x The Armoury 1st Pattern M-65 Field Jacket

Navy / Small

Our own City Hunter Jacket takes inspiration from both old English and Spanish Teba hunting jackets.

For this season’s City Hunter, we went for triple patch pocket design for a more casual feel. We’ve added flaps on the hip pockets and rounded the pocket seams, to give the jacket a softer look. It’s our first thing we grab when on the move. With ample pocket space, it’s perfect for frequent travelers.

Made from a breezy linen, this jacket is a perfect top layer for the warmer months.

Our own City Hunter Jacket takes inspiration from both old English and Spanish Teba hunting jackets.For this season’s City Hunter, we went for triple patch pocket design for a more casual feel. We’ve added flaps on the hip pockets and rounded the pocket seams, to give the jacket a softer look. It’s our first thing we grab when on the move. With ample pocket space, it’s perfect for frequent travelers.Made from a breezy linen, this jacket is a perfect top layer for the warmer months.

Linen City Hunter Jacket - Green / X-Small

Linen City Hunter Jacket

Green / X-Small

The Frederick Coat is made for wearing both casually or over tailoring, the body is just long enough to cover tailored jackets, and the waist can be cinched to give a bit more shape.

Made from a super lightweight cotton/nylon blend, this coat is sure to keep you dry throughout the warmer months.

The Frederick Coat is made for wearing both casually or over tailoring, the body is just long enough to cover tailored jackets, and the waist can be cinched to give a bit more shape.Made from a super lightweight cotton/nylon blend, this coat is sure to keep you dry throughout the warmer months.

Cotton/Nylon Frederick Coat - Olive / 48

Cotton/Nylon Frederick Coat

Olive / 48

- The BCB is a new addition to our casual lineup. Taking inspiration from MA-1 Bomber Jackets and our own City Hunter Jacket we took the classic military style and elevated it to look at home with our favorite tailored pieces. Partnering with a Japanese mill that specializes in knit wool, the fabric features some welcome natural stretch. It’s finished with TPS seams creating for a sleek and “seamless” look. Because of the natural give of the jersey knit fabric and the modern garment construction, our BCB makes for a comfortable, casual layer for the office or the weekend.
- With open side-entry pockets and an internal chest pocket, there’s ample storage for your essentials.

<ul><li>The BCB is a new addition to our casual lineup. Taking inspiration from MA-1 Bomber Jackets and our own <a href="">City Hunter</a> Jacket we took the classic military style and elevated it to look at home with our favorite tailored pieces. Partnering with a Japanese mill that specializes in knit wool, the fabric features some welcome natural stretch. It’s finished with TPS seams creating for a sleek and “seamless” look. Because of the natural give of the jersey knit fabric and the modern garment construction, our BCB makes for a comfortable, casual layer for the office or the weekend.</li><li>With open side-entry pockets and an internal chest pocket, there’s ample storage for your essentials.</li></ul>

Wool BCB Jacket - Navy / 44

Wool BCB Jacket

Navy / 44

The Armoury’s Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. Made from a wool and linen blend by Dormeuil in a handsome Prince of Wales check. This jacket is an excellent casual option for the warmer months.

The Armoury’s Model 3 sport coat features an unpadded shoulder and enlarged sleevehead giving the garment an exceptional range of motion. We’ve also widened the shoulders and lowered the buttoning point and lapel notches to give the jacket a more timeless feel. Made from a wool and linen blend by Dormeuil in a handsome Prince of Wales check. This jacket is an excellent casual option for the warmer months.