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Timepieces & Classic Style in Central, Hong Kong — Part 1: Early Access

In celebration of the Phillips INTERSECT online auction, we've paired highlights from our collection to watches from the upcoming auction.

Any watch collector will undoubtedly have come across Phillips, one of the leading auction houses in the world. With their uncanny knack for sourcing some of the finest and rarest timepieces in the world, their auctions are closely watched and hotly contested. In the run up to their upcoming Phillips INTERSECT online auction, we have teamed up with our friends at Phillips Hong Kong to mix The Armoury’s classic style with special timepieces going under the hammer this season. As all of us at Phillips HK and The Armoury are avid watch collectors, we also mixed in a few of our personal pieces as well. Timepieces can be a crucial part of an outfit and we hope you can take a few ideas away from these images! 

The Phillips INTERSECT online auction will be previewing in early September followed by the auction itself in mid September.

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1. Vacheron Constantin 47450/B01A-9227 Overseas Dual Time in Stainless Steel, circa 2010

We chose Thomas a black knit tie to go with the textured black dial of this Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

In success of the Vacheron Constantin 222 model, the firm revealed a new descendant from the icon in 1996, the Overseas. Fashioned in an attractive Maltese cross bezel in steel, the debut of the collection instantly captured the market’s appetite for the luxury sports timepieces.

Part of the second generation of the lineage produced from 2004 to 2016, the present Overseas Dual Time is powered by a the cal. 1222 SC inspired by the coveted Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 929/3. Sporting a masculine rich black dial with intricate guilloché design, the dual-time sports watch is muscled up to a 42 diameter size and is equipped with not only functionality but flawless legibility. Now discontinued, and offered in an excellent condition and accompanied with its full accessories, this is definitely a robust icon for fitted for everyday wear.

Watch Estimate:
50,000 to 100,000 HKD
6,400 to 13,000 USD

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time in Stainless Steel, circa 2015

Keeping with the lovely geometry of this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Jan wore a double breasted suit with a large scale prince of wales check.

Designed in the 1990s, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time was a timepiece built for jet setter of the era. Much like the all-time collector’s favourite Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 5402, the Royal Oak Dual Time ref. 26120 features a 39mm diameter stainless steel case as a homage to the original proportions with a contemporary touch. The stainless steel reference was launched in 2 variants, a white dial and a black dial like the present example. On top of the rich dark grand tapisserie dial, four complications are displayed in white and red accents to offer maximum legibility: a date function at 2 o’clock, a second time-zone with day and night indication at 6 o’clock, and finally a power reserve indication at 9 o’clock. Powered by the self-winding calibre 2329/2846 beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph, delivering 40 hours of power reserve. Beautifully balanced with a wealth of information, the black variant boast an attractive masculine appeal. Discontinued in 2015, the present example offered in an excellent overall condition is part of the last of its kind.

Watch Estimate:
120,000 to 200,000 HKD
15,400 to 25,700 USD

3. Rolex Yacht-Master 18K in Yellow Gold, circa 2002

We surrounded Alice’s Rolex Yacht-Master with a pinstripe suit, drawing out the lustre of the mother-of-pearl dial.

Launched in the early 1990s, the Rolex Yacht-Master believed by many was a reinterpretation of the coveted Submariner model. However, when stakeholders realized that the iconic Submariner should not be replaced, they introduced a new line by the way of the Yacht-Master. While its depth rating stands at 100 meters, the Yacht-Master targeted a different audience seeking for quality robustness enhanced with a luxurious touch. Primarily launched in precious metals only, Rolex introduced a wide array of sizes, case material and dial configurations following their successful launch in the early 1990s.

The present Rolex Yacht-Master ref. 168628 in yellow gold features a rather friendly mid-size 35mm diameter case. Fitted with its original yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, the flamboyance of the present timepiece is further witnessed on its lustrous mother of pearl dial adorned with diamond and sapphire-set indexes. Well-preserved and complete with its full set of accessories, the present timepiece will surely not disappoint as one of the perfect summer wristwatches to sport at the beach or on a yacht.

Watch Estimate:
100,000 to 150,000 HKD
13,000 to 19,300 USD

4. Patek Philippe 5130G-019 World Time 18K in White Gold, circa 2015

We used fine, subtle patterns in Shoyo’s suit and shirt to emphasize the starburst guilloche of this Patek Philippe World Time.

Released in 2006, the Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5130 replaced its former ref. 5110 with a few subtle updates. Regarded by many collectors as one of the most adored and practical timepieces, the Patek Philippe world time was launched in various metals including, yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum.

While most of its aesthetics remain similar as its former model, the new ref. 5130 featured a larger 39.5mm diameter case compared to 37mm for its previous model to cater towards the contemporary demand for larger wristwatches. Furthermore, the main dial featuring an elegant guilloché dial is of a different pattern compared to its former engine turned finish witnessed on the ref. 5110. Set with its iconic ring-shaped hour hand, the feature pays its tribute to the historically important Patek Philippe World Time timepieces from the 1960s, such as the ref. 605 HU. The reference was discontinued in 2016 making way for the new ref. 5230.

The present example Patek Philippe ref. 5130 in white gold is offered in excellent overall condition with very minimal signs of wear. Complete with its full set of accessories, the present discontinued reference is a fantastic example for collectors to acquire if they have missed out before.

Watch Estimate:
120,000 to 180,000 HKD
15,400 to 23,100 USD

5. Panerai No. PAM 764 Luminor Yachts Challenge in Titanium, circa 2019

We echoed the Panerai’s blue hands, tachymeter track and pushers with Ziyong’s pale blue sport coat.

With an established presence in the world of sailing and yachting, Panerai has always been at the forefront of adventure at sea. In 2019, the firm released three limited edition models to pay its tribute to the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge an annual regatta reserved only for the classics. The result was three Luminor (PCYC) flyback central chronograph wristwatches each in different case metals including examples in titanium, black ceramic and 5NPT red gold.

Referenced the PAM 764, the limited edition flyback chronograph timepiece is by all means a Panerai. Featuring the firm’s signature sandwiched dial, the timepiece also boasts a large 44mm diameter case executed in brushed titanium to enhance its light comfort on the wrist. Designed for nautical adventures, the dial is equipped with a nautical tachometer scale with two central chronographic hands one in blue (to capture seconds elapsed) and the other in white (to capture minutes elapsed) activated via two chronographic pushers positioned on the left side of the caseband.

The present example in titanium numbered 79 of a limited edition of 1,000 pieces is offered in excellent overall condition with extremely minimal signs of use and wear. Accompanied by its full set of accessories, this is another example of the perfect summer watch to enjoy whilst on sail or at the docks.

Watch Estimate:
50,000 to 80,000 HKD
6,400 to 10,300 USD

6. Tudor 79220R Heritage Black Black Bay in Stainless Steel, circa 2013

The burgundy bezel and cream indices of the Black Bay pair nicely with the wine and gold of our Arthur’s Standard Jacket and a long sleeve polo.

Taking its inspiration from historic masterpieces such as the firm’s coveted diver’s wristwatches from the 1950s, Tudor released the long awaited Heritage Black Bay in 2012 with extremely attractive features such as the iconic case construction of the original Black Bay, an array of bezel insert color options and a dial inspired from the past. Extremely well-received the Tudor Heritage Black Bay was awarded the Revival Prize at the GPHG 2013 (Grand Prix d’horlogerie de Genève).

In 2016, the firm reintroduced the model via the Black Bay 58 featuring for the first time an in-house self-winding movement discontinuing its previous ref. 72290 powered by the reliable ETA-based cal. 2824-2. The introduction of the upgraded model was not only witnessed on the movement but also on the dial. Early examples of the Heritage Black Bay featured its iconic “Rose” logo above the signature as witnessed in the original Black Bay from the 1950s. Later examples featured Tudor’s “Shield” logo.

The present example Tudor Heritage Black Bay ref. 72290R with a red bezel insert from circa 2013 belongs to the first generation featuring a “Rose” logo and an ETA-based movement. It is complete with its full set of accessories and preserved in very good overall condition.

Watch Estimate:
16,000 to 25,000 HKD
2,050 to 3,200 USD

7. Gerald Genta ‘Mickey Mouse’

With a recent spike in demand for early Gérald Genta timepieces, the community has witnessed a growing appetite for the Retro “Mikey Mouse” collection. Although the hype for Genta designed timepieces such as the Nautilus and the Royal Oak are still witnessing record prices achieved at auction, timepieces with the Genta name on the dial are realizing a similar pattern.

 

In the 1980s, Genta won the rights to produce timepieces to celebrate Walt Disney and cartoon characters from Mickey Mouse series. Since then. These rare timepieces have been produced with various dial designs as well as case materials. The present Retro “Mickey Mouse” is an instant classic encompassing the whimsical mouse swinging a golf club articulated as the indication of its retrograde style minutes. An aperture at the 4 o’clock position features a jumping hour sums up the style of the Genta Retro. With a teal colored dial contrasted against the mother of pearl minute track, the appeal is simply vibrant and playful.

 

The present example Gérald Genta Retro “Mickey Mouse” features its original stainless steel bracelet and is preserved in very good overall condition.

8. Rolex Daytona Ref. 116519

Released in 2000, Rolex upgraded their coveted Cosmograph Daytona model by featuring for the first time their own in-house chronograph caliber 4130 via the ref. 116500 series. Introduced in a wide array of metals and dial configurations, the white gold variant was dubbed as the ref. 116519. The present example in white gold features a classic black dial adorned with 8 diamond-set indexes giving the timepiece a subtle hint of flare.

 

The present example from 2007 is accompanied by its original guarantee stamped by a local Hong Kong retailer and its full set of accessories. Preserved in excellent overall condition with very minimal signs of wear, this mint ref. 116519 will surely delight collectors seeking for a luxurious iteration of the much-loved Rolex Daytona.

Hong
Kong
Hong
Kong
Landmark

B47 Landmark Central
15 Queen’s Road Central
Central, Hong Kong

Mon to Sat: 11am - 7:30pm
Sun: 12pm - 6pm

Pedder Arcade

501 Pedder Building
12 Pedder Street
Central, Hong Kong

Mon to Sat: 11am - 7:30pm
Sun: 12pm - 6pm

New
York
New
York
Tribeca

168 Duane Street
New York, NY 10013
United States

Mon to Sat: 11am - 7pm
Sun: 12pm - 6pm

Upper East Side

13 East 69th Street
New York, NY 10021
United States

Mon to Sat: 10am - 6pm
Sun: 12pm - 6pm