Since our first version in 2011 the Model 1 has undergone many iterations and refinements. It is unique to our house tailoring range due to the slight shoulder pad to enhance the wearer’s presence.
A Powerful Suit
With the gently padded shoulder, The Model 1 gives the wearer a little more presence. As a suit we call it the 1A, the A denoting the Model A, flat front trouser for which we recommend a 3 inch cuff.
As mentioned above, The Model 1 features a slim pad which emphasizes the shoulder line. It also features an extended shoulder, additional canvas which it cut slightly longer to extend from the sleeve head. This flattering effect provides a clean transition from sleeve to shoulder and is typical of many northern Italian style jackets such as those of Musella Dembech.
The canvas is the skeleton of the jacket, providing body and structure to the cloth. With a full floating canvas we achieve the deep roll of the lapel, full chest and even the extended shoulder mentioned above.
A frequently used term in tailoring; this means that a jacket is made with 3 front buttons, but the lapel rolls over to cover the top button. The Model 1 is cut so only that the middle button is intended to be used.
The chest pocket is cut straight, contrasting those of the softer neapolitan makers, fitting in with northern Italian tailors. The pocket is angled downwards, and lowered to match the slightly lowered gorge line.
Another signature feature of our Model 1 jacket is the long, straight lapel. The gorge line (the seam connecting the collar to the lapel) has a sharp 90 degree angle. These details along with the construction make for a bold overall look.
We set out with the goal of creating a range of tailoring that would be ready for any occasion. Over a decade we’ve designed and refined the collection in partnership with Ring Jacket, a small Japanese manufacturer.
Ring Jacket has a rich history of more than 60 years in ready-to-wear and custom garments. We partnered with them because of their consistency, attention to detail and ability to give made-to-measure garments what can only be described as three dimensional ‘life’.
Ring Jacket pattern makers visit The Armoury NYC three times a year for trunk shows offering made-to-measure services and exclusive fabrics.